About the Coach Behind Climbing Performance Lab

A young man climbing a large boulder in a forest, with trees and rocks in the background, in black and white.

James Goodey – Climbing Coach and Performance Specialist

I’ve been climbing for over 16 years, with experience spanning national competitions and outdoor ascents of multiple V10s. Over time, what’s kept me most engaged is the challenge of problem-solving. I’m fascinated by the minutiae of movement: figuring out exactly why a boulder feels hard, whether it’s down to subtle technical errors, physical limitations, or a tactical misread, and then systematically addressing it.

That same mindset led me to complete an MSc in Applied Sport and Exercise Physiology, where I focused my research on climbing performance. My coaching approach combines this scientific foundation with real-world experience to deliver training that’s both evidence-based and genuinely practical.

Whether you're working through a plateau, refining technique, or preparing for performance goals, I aim to provide tools that bring clarity, structure, and measurable progress to your climbing.

Coaching Philosophy

My coaching philosophy is built around objective assessment, structured training design, and ongoing monitoring. Rather than relying on generic plans or intuition alone, training decisions are informed by performance data and adjusted over time based on individual response and goals.

Learn more about how assessments inform training on the Performance Assessment page, or explore Training & Coaching options.